During the period of Martial Law in the Philippines, a team of Filipino scientists and researchers was sent abroad to gain knowledge and expertise that could improve the country’s livestock industry. Among these researchers was Dr. Bernabe Cocjin, who, while exploring farmlands in Tokyo, Japan, came across the Hinai-dori, Japan’s native chicken. This discovery sparked an idea that would soon play a key role in transforming the poultry industry back home.
The Hinai-dori is a native Japanese chicken breed, originally from Akita Prefecture, known for its superior taste and meat quality. However, during Japan’s Meiji Era (1868–1913), the breed faced a threat of extinction as foreign and exotic chicken breeds were introduced. With a strong sense of cultural identity, the Japanese worked diligently to preserve and protect this native chicken. Government policies and institutional support were put in place to maintain the breed’s cultural and economic importance. By 1942, the Hinai-dori was officially designated as a national treasure of Japan, ensuring its protection and boosting its status as a valuable economic commodity.
Today, Hinai-dori remains a popular delicacy in Japan and is a significant contributor to the country’s economy.
A similar challenge arose in the Philippines during the 1970s when the local native chicken industry struggled to compete with the rising dominance of commercial broiler breeds. Industrialization led to an increased focus on these profitable commercial breeds, leaving native chickens, which were primarily raised in backyard farms, to be neglected. This resulted in the native breeds becoming mixed with other species, leading to inconsistent characteristics and performance.
Dr. Cocjin, inspired by Japan’s success with the Hinai-dori, realized that the Philippines could benefit from establishing a native chicken breed with cultural significance. Growing up in Panay, he saw potential in the local Darag chicken, a breed native to the islands of Panay and Guimaras.
The Darag Native Chicken: A Hidden Gem of the Philippines
The Darag chicken, which evolved from the Red Jungle Fowl (Gallus gallus bankiva) that has lived in Southeast Asia for millennia, is one of the Philippines’ many native chicken breeds. To the untrained eye, Darag may look similar to other local chicken breeds. However, it has distinct features that set it apart.
The word “Darag” comes from the local language ‘Kinaray-a’ or Ilonggo, meaning yellow. The Darag chicken is easily identifiable by its yellowish-brown plumage, a mix of dark brown and golden yellow feathers, each with a characteristic yellow line running from base to tip. Additionally, it has gray shanks or chicken feet, which is a key trait farmers associate with tastier meat.
The meat of the Darag chicken is known for its rich flavor and unique eating experience. It is said to be more savory than commercial chicken, with a firmer texture but without the gamy flavor often found in other native breeds. This has made Darag a popular choice in markets and restaurants throughout Iloilo, where the chicken has become a staple ingredient in local dishes like ‘tinuom,’ ‘binakol,’ and ‘inasal.’
Prices for dressed Darag chicken are competitive, selling at around 350 pesos per kilo, which provides a good profit margin for farmers and sellers. The rise in demand for Darag has also led to the emergence of businesses centered around the breed, such as JR Rawit’s Native Lechon Manok, a popular establishment that has been selling Darag dishes for over 35 years.
Breeding and Developing the Darag
In the 1980s, Dr. Cocjin, working at West Visayas State University (WVSU), began research on how to create a pure line of Darag chickens, similar to how Japan had preserved the Hinai-dori. However, this was no easy task. The native chicken population in Panay had become mixed with other breeds, resulting in varying traits and unpredictable performance. Establishing a pure Darag line meant separating the Darag from these mixed populations and ensuring consistency across generations.
The solution came through a targeted breeding and selection program led by Dr. Cocjin and supported by the Philippine Council for Agriculture, Aquatic, and Natural Resources Research and Development (DOST-PCAARRD). Native chickens from Panay and Guimaras were collected and carefully selected based on their physical characteristics. Through eight generations of selective breeding, the team was able to develop a pure Darag line with uniform and predictable traits.
According to Dr. Synan Baguio, Director of the Livestock Research Division at DOST-PCAARRD, the purification of the Darag breed has made it a viable source of livelihood for farmers. With standardized physical characteristics, consistent production, and reliable meat quality, the Darag chicken offers farmers a steady and profitable alternative to commercial broiler breeds.
Revitalizing Tradition and Investing in the Future
Investing in indigenous breeds and grassroots technologies may seem counterintuitive in a world dominated by modern scientific advancements and industrialized agriculture. Yet, DOST-PCAARRD saw an opportunity in the native chicken industry, particularly in the Darag breed. Dr. Baguio emphasized that developing native breeds like the Darag not only strengthens cultural pride but also fosters economic growth by providing a stable livelihood for farmers and producers.
DOST-PCAARRD remains committed to furthering the development of the Darag chicken, with ongoing breeding and selection programs aimed at improving the breed’s production capacity and quality. Dr. Baguio also encouraged other scientists and researchers to continue working on the Darag, noting that the agency is open to funding initiatives that will ensure the breed’s sustainability.
Empowering Farmers and Expanding the Market
With the breeding program in place, the next challenge is ensuring that Darag chickens are accessible to a broader market. Farmers are the backbone of the Darag industry, and empowering them is crucial for its sustainability.
Various training sessions and seminars, supported by WVSU and DOST-PCAARRD, have been conducted to teach local farmers about the importance of conserving the Darag’s genetic potential. In 2017, the Panay Darag Breeders Association (PADABA) was established. This organization, which includes over 100 farmers, business owners, and former overseas Filipino workers (OFWs), aims to strengthen the Darag as a market commodity and provide sustainable livelihood opportunities for farmers.
Agnes Filipinas Moreno, known as ‘Ness,’ is one such farmer who has benefited from the Darag breeding program. Together with her husband, a former OFW, she has built a successful business raising and selling Darag chickens. Moreno noted that the cost of raising Darag is relatively low, as the breed does not rely heavily on commercial feeds. Darag chickens have a healthy gut and can thrive on a variety of forages, making them more resilient and cost-efficient compared to other breeds.
Conclusion
The Darag native chicken has become a symbol of both cultural pride and economic potential in the Philippines. Thanks to the dedicated efforts of researchers like Dr. Cocjin and institutions like DOST-PCAARRD, the Darag has been revived and developed into a sustainable industry that benefits farmers, businesses, and consumers alike. As the Darag continues to gain popularity and recognition, its role in fostering socio-economic growth and preserving local heritage will only continue to expand.
Source: Flavors of Science: How Science created an authentic Ilonggo Flavor—Darag native chicken -https://www.pcaarrd.dost.gov.ph/index.php/quick-information-dispatch-qid-articles/flavors-of-science-how-science-created-an-authentic-ilonggo-flavor-darag-native-chicken
